Filing Bridge down

This topic contains 4 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  John Cockman 4 months ago.

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  • #52502
    Cheri
    Cheri
    Participant

    I sent an email awhile back asking how to trim the bridge down and cannot recover the email. Jon, or anyone that can provide insight on this matter? I find it very hard to play two strings with finger placements, and had heard that lowering the bridge down a bit will help a lot.

    Anybody else get a twangy sound when they pluck there fiddle? It doesn’t seem normal to me.

    Also, I have searched how to find out when my next monthly payment is due and don’t see it on here.. Thank you so much!

    #52504

    Hi Cheri

    before you make your bridge lower you need to check the hight at G and E strings between fingerboard and the string. If G is around 5-5,5mm and E is around 3 -3,5 mm I would not lower any at bridge, cause can make Buzz sound.

    I use a soft curve so easier play dobble and single strings. But I think to play dobble strings most need is practice, practice and practice.

     

    #52505
    Steve Srader
    Steve Srader
    Participant

    You should keep your original bridge and make a new one in case things don’t work out . I use a file and sand paper to fileĀ  down the Bridge . E string should be about 1/8″ off finger board G string about 3/16 off finger board curve should match fingerboard curve , You can fold a piece of paper and put it against the finger board and mark it with a pencil to get the finger board curve . It wouldn’t hurt to have a backup bridge be for you attempt it in case you get it to low or break it , also the feet of the bridge should fit the violin top with no gaps or daylight under them when the bridge is in place . Good Luck , also strings should be about 7/16 just under a half inch apart and a thin 1/16″ piece of strait card board or metal strip that’s strait should slide from on top of the E string and under the A string to over the top of the D string . Its a good idea to look at the string clearance before you remove the bridge . Hold the violin up and site with your eye from the E string to under the A string to the D string you will notice when the E and D are lined up there’s about a 1/16 clearance under the A string and the same when siting from the G string to under the D string to lining up the G to A string , siting is done close to the bridge . I hope this is not to much information . LOL , By the way the back of the bridge is the flat side the front facing the finger board is sloped don’t get it turned around.

    #52513

    Here are some measurements just as a guide. Fiddle/Violin is personal how we like it.

     

    #52531

    John Cockman
    Keymaster

    Gentlemen, thank you for providing all the great advice and images and measurements. That is very helpful!

    This may not be perfect, but this is how most of the local old-time fiddlers do it.

    1) Tape a piece of sanding paper to the top plate of the fiddle where the bridge will go.

    2) Take the bridge and rub it back and forth across the sanding paper until the shape of the feet match the curvature of the top plate.

    3) Remove the sanding paper. Roll a round pencil across the fingerboard so that the point of the pencil makes a mark across the bridge.

    4) Sand the bridge down to the pencil mark on the E string, but a little above the pencil mark on the G string.

    5) Press the top with a butter knife to make notches for the strings.

    6) Sand the pencil mark off the bridge to make it a little thinner.

    7) String up the fiddle, and go at it!

    However Steve is right. Playing double stops simply takes a lot of practice!

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